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After a big meal this light cake still disappeared easily. If you don't have spelt flour and you don't mind having a little gluten, substitute cake flour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Separate 6 eggs.
Beat yolks for a minute.
Add 1/3 (to 1/2, depending on your taste) cup sugar, and 3 Tbls. powdered sugar
Add the zest of one lemon
Juice of that lemon
3/4 cup mild olive oil.
Mix together, and use the residue of olive oil in your measuring cup to grease a 9-inch (24-cm) spring-form pan.

Add:
1/2 cup spelt flour
1/2 cup almond flour

Beat egg whites until stiff peaks are formed, and minimally fold them into the batter.

Peel a tangerine and place it under a glass placed lip down on the bottom of the pan. Pour all the finished batter around the glass. Remove glass. Bake in prepared oven for 45 minutes.  Turn off oven, open door and let cake cool completely.  You may glaze the cake when you serve it, but it's not necessary.


Daube_ProvencalDSC_6810.JPGBeef Bourguignon is Steuart's all-time best, never-fail crowd pleaser, but he makes it all the time. Poor me.

For a Sunday night dinner with a couple of friends, he wanted to try something different. But thwarting him was a big piece of beef- the last of our cow from Pure Wyoming Beef -- waiting, thawed in the refrigerator.

Daube de Boeuf a la Provencial.
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Marinate 3 lbs of beef cubes in 1.5 cups of dry white wine, or a light red, 2 T olive oil, salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, mashed garlic, 2 cups of thin-sliced onions, 2 cups of thin sliced carrots.  At least 3 hours (refrigerate if you're going to leave them longer).


Noon on Sunday: Preheat oven 300 F.
If your bacon is salty, boil it for a few minutes to remove salt. Chop 1lb of mushrooms and 1lb of tomatoes. Drain the meat in a sieve. Line bottom of casserole or LeCruset with bacon, add a layer of marinade and newly chopped vegetable  in the casserole, roll the beef cubes in flour and layer them on, add another layer of bacon and repeat until casserole is full or ingredients are exhausted. Pour the marinade and some beef stock over it all until liquid nearly comes to the top of the casserole.

Cook for about 4 hours.daube-provencal.jpg

Skim the fat of the top with a baster.

Using a fork mash ten anchovies and 2 T. capers to a paste. See first photo. Then add to  3 t. wine vinegar, 2 closes of garlic mashed, 1/4 cup minced parsley.

Add this to the casserole and put back in your low temp oven until ready to serve.

It's amazingly different from the rich beef stew from Burgundy.

We served it with roast potatoes, peas and a green salad. Plenty for everyone and left overs, too.

Wine to go with:  an Argentinian Malbec was incredible. We also tried a durif from South Africa -- not so good. Hearty was surprisingly better. The third bottle, a Zinfandel, went down just fine too.

For dessert -- a gluten free coconut cake. Now that's another story.


onion-soup-banner.jpgIt's a weekend and my husband is working on a project elsewhere, so I can take some time to make a few things for the workweek. One is French Onion Soup, which is better if left to meld in the frig for a day or two.

onion-soup.jpgCook 5 cups of sliced (long thin wedges) onion in 2 Tbs butter and 2 Tbs olive oil in a covered saucepan on low heat for 15 minutes. Uncover, raise heat to medium stir in 1 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. sugar and cook for 30-40 minutes stirring frequently until onions have turned an even deep golden brown.  (If you're making another dish for the week. You can prepare it here, while you're giving the onions the occasional stir.


When the onions are brown, sprinkle on 3 Tbs flour and stir for a few minutes.

Off heat, pour in 2 quarts of boiling brown stock (if you want a lighter tasting soup you may use a lighter stock like chicken or vegetable stock, but a beefy one is what is traditional). Add 1/2 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth. Simmer partially covered for 30-40 minutes or more. then set aside until ready to serve.

It will taste better the next day.

You've arrived home from work on a crisp evening, and you put the soup pot on low to warm. And turn on the oven. (Another reason this meal satisfies in March or those last persistent wintry, not quite spring nights.)  

Cut a couple slices of french bread per person, bake the slices in the oven for about 1/2 hour while you're reheating the soup. Brush with olive oil and turn half way through the cooking if you want, and just a minute or so before mealtime, grate Parmesan cheese on top and toast under a broiler until deep golden brown. Place the cheese toasts on top of the soup as you serve it.

You can also make biggish croutons by cutting bread in 1 inch cubes and baking them until they dry out, brushing these with olive oil, rubbing with  a crushed garlic if you like garlic. Put these cubes on top of the soup in the bowl, or a soup tureen if you serve soup en mass. Grate cheese on top and then toast under the broiler for a few minutes until golden brown. Use hot pads to serve the soup bowls and set each on a place mat because it will be hot.

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Well-made cheese is exceptional - shouldn't become usual. It's expensive, high in fat, but pleasantly high in calcium and protein, so it's not junk food. I like to think of it as a special treat, and serve it as the French do, after the main meal. If it's served as hors d'oevres, I can devour cheese like a bag of chips and neither one is very good for me.

Think of each cheese as one of the tiny items on the Tasting Menu at a swank and trendy restaurant. Select three cheeses that are similar but have subtle differences. The smallness of these difference will hone your attention to the unique qualities of each cheese. An ordinary cracker can carry the cheese to your mouth, but these crackers reformat your palette between bites.

Tasmanian Pepper Black Cocoa Crackers:
2 cups flour (spelt is good if you don't want wheat)
1/2 tsp. baking powder (very little is needed at high altitude)
2 Tbs. black onyx cocoa (Savory Spice)
1 cup water
2 tsps. Tasmanian Black Pepper, crushed. Reserve for the rolling
1 tsps. good salt. Reserve for the application just before baking.

Mix dry ingredients (reserve the salt and pepper) together with a wooden spoon and then add water until the mixture forms a dry ball. Some bits might not join in, and some flour may still not be absorbed, so sprinkle a few more drops of water on those and pull everything together with floured hands. You may not need all the water or you may need a touch more. The dough should be moist but not sticky. If it's too sticky add a little flour to the bowl and roll your ball in it. It's okay to move the dough firmly to pull it together and work it a little to even out the texture, but you won't do your crackers any good by kneading them. Preheat oven to 450 degrees Farenheit. The cracker dough is happy to have a rest while it heats.

cracker-rolling.pngcrackers-uncut.pngI remember when someone first told me they were making crackers. The whole process felt burdensome, and I sometimes have that feeling, again, when I'm asked to make them. My crackers are so incredible that I am asked this often. But really the whole mixing process takes less than 5 minutes.

Rolling the dough is fun, and I divide this quantity of dough into four parts and roll the dough very thin, tossing on the pepper when I'm almost at the final thinness and rolling it in. Then I put the slab of dough on a cookie sheet. It you can't handle the dough - if it's really thin or delicate - just slide it onto the back of the sheet with a big spatula. The thinner the better the cracker, I think.

I spray the surface with a mister and sprinkle on the salt, then cut the dough in pieces with a pizza cutter.

Into the hot oven it goes, set timer and cook for 12 to 15 minutes. Roll out the next ball of dough. You can make several flavor by changing the topping at this point if you want. The cracker has backed long enough, if they will break apart easily. You will come up with a thickness and a doneness that you prefer as you make these and other crackers. After you've served them once, you'll want to make more.

crackers.pngServe warm, if you can, but they will last for days, just like any other cracker.

The cocoa is unsweetened but works to grab your attention with a subtle, lovable chocolate flavor. The special quality of the Tazmanian pepper is that it numbs the mouth. So, Taz pepper works as the perfect palette cleanser, but also forces you to slow down to enjoy all the other subtle tastes offered by the cheese, the wine that accompanies it and the starchy cracker. So, isolate the bits. Instead of trying to get a sample of each thing in one mouthful. This is a course to be enjoyed with small bites in separate parts. A drink of wine after finishing the end of a cracker. Eating the cheese off the top. There is satisfaction with getting the combos right, and each bite is a new experience.

oatmeal-banner.jpgOrganic rolled on the left; organic steel cut on the right. Rolled is cut, steamed and rolled through a mill; the one on the right is just cut. Both are organic; both $1.69 per pound in bulk at Whole Foods. Texture is the big difference. I like the crunchy version on the right

Here's how to make a sublime breakfast:

oatmeal-blueberries-yogurt.jpgToast 1/2 cup or so of oats for a minute in a good saucepan. Fill a 2-cup measure or jug with water. Pour a cup of coffee and relax, or just toast a few less seconds if you're impatient, then pour the water on the toasting oats. Stand back. Dress for work, relax, read a magazine, let the oat-water mixture come to a boil, boil uncovered for about 5 minutes. When you come to refill your coffee, turn it down to simmer, or set on medium if you're in a hurry. In 10 minutes, the steel cut oats are soft enough to eat - or leave for 20 minutes - 30 or more if you've put on a lid and set it to a minimum temperature. Whenever I'm ready, the oats are ready.

If this much cooking seems too much, soak the oats overnight. And the 10 minutes on boil is reduced in half. You just want it to froth a little and rehydrate the grain. Or make a big batch once a week and reheat a small portion with milk in the morning. You could microwave this, but using a pan doesn't take more time to boil liquids. If you're used to having sugar with your breakfast, you can add sugar or honey, or you might just try smelling the oats, especially as they cook on a cool winter morning, and see if you can identify some of the subtle smells and tastes in this grain. You might find it's sweet enough.

I often serve the oatmeal with a few frozen blueberry on top. I add a little plain yogurt and a little milk. 

For the breakfast pictured, I bought the absolute finest Bulgarian Pro-biotic Yogurt, (White Mountain Bulgarian), the sweetest blueberries available in winter - Whole Foods 365 brand, frozen wild blueberries and organic milk. And I decided to measure everything and see how much this gourmet breakfast cost me. For more, read how my breakfast is CHEAPER than packaged instant oats.

Clear Beef Stock

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Clear beef stock in easy to use cubes. That's the final product of a long process -- not a hard one -- that is the basis of some many great recipes, and that's beef stock.

stock.pngPlease feel free to read the post I wrote last winter about making beef stock for more details on the process, but essentially it's this: roast beef bones in a hot oven until they are brown. Cover them with cold water and vegetables and simmer without boiling for hours. You want every bit of flavor to leave your solid ingredients.

Strain out the solids from the broth and let the stock cool without covering.

clarification.pngYour broth is ready to save at this point, or you can clarify it with egg whites. Harold McGee explains how to make the stock clear. Pour in two egg whites into 4 quarts of cold stock, heat to a simmer for at least fifteen minutes while the egg whites collect into a raft and put all the particles left in the stock on board. It's a cool process and really fun to watch in action. Look at this stuff go.

clear-broth.pngJust skim the raft off and you have a beautiful clear consumé. It's easy to do. We just used a slotted spoon. Because we had cooked the beef broth down to a very concentrated level - less bulk in our freezer - the final product was dense and very concentrated. If you're isn't so dense McGee suggests you cook your stock with some new additions of meat and bones for about an hour before your clarify it.

broth-cubes.pngHere's our secret for storage. Let the clear stock cool a little while you clean and ice cube tray. Pour it, or unclarified stuff, into the trays and freeze. Use whenever you want.

This might seem like a long process, but we do it once a year and have stock cubes all year long. And once you do this, you can't go back to cans.







tartiflette-stove.pngCold weather, high altitude, cheese

In the Alps of France, a Danish friend explained the term 'deftig,'which is German, by pointing to the heavy food we were eating. It was January and we were out in the weather most of the day and part of the night making snow sculpture. Deftig is what we craved; what we crave on a cold winter night. Deftig is beef stew, goulash, fondue - stuff with meat, potatoes, and in the alps, cheese. We experienced the ultimate in deftig after a cross-country ski in the town of Pralognan-la-Vanoise and its called tartiflette. Since then we've recreated this great dish at home, and found a pizzeria that serves a tartiflette pizza.

In Denver, our January tartiflette was served with a wintery spinach salad (with balsamic vinaigrette) and the remainder of the bottle (1/4 cup went into the casserole) of a crisp Argentinian Torrontes.

tartiflette.pngYou'll need to find reblochon, or a soft mountain-style (nutty, wildflower/herb aroma) cow-milk cheese if you must substitute.

1/2 lb. reblochon cheese
3/4 lb. potatoes
1 tbs. butter
1/4 onion
2 slices ham
4 tbs. cream
2 tbs. yogurt
1/4 cup white wine

Par-boil 3/4 lb. of fingerling potatoes whole for 10 minutes. Drain, pour over them 1/4 cup of white wine. Sauté about 1/4 of an onion in 1 tbs. butter in a stove- and oven-going casserole, cut 2 slices of ham - we used a really great ham bought from the butcher at Denver Urban Homesteadding - into bite size pieces. Use a slotted spoon to place remove the potatoes and slice them into the sauté.

Cut the cheese wheel into demi-circles, then in half through the thickness.  Cut the 1/2 circles again to fit your casserole. Place the cheese so the rind is up and soft cheese is touching the potatoes. Mix 4 tbs of cream and 2 tbs of yogurt in the bowl the potatoes came from, with what remains of  of the wine. Pour this mixture on top of everything in the casserole.

As you can see, we'd split everything between two serving size au gratin pans. These should be heated until everything is bubbling on the stove top, and then baked in the 425 degree oven for about 15 minutes until the cheese is a deep golden brown.  

Tomorrow, remember to go out for a good, long ski.  
granola-banner.jpgThe suddenly very cold temperatures this week in Denver made me look for a reason to turn on the oven. For a good long while. Granola, the perfect excuse.

The temperature I use is low, 300 degrees F, so your energy costs will be small. As far as your physical energy expended, allow a couple hours at home to get the job done, but the actual hands-on time in granola making is 15 minutes. With that effort, you can easily produce 4 pounds of cereal.

Buy regular rolled oats in bulk for about $1.60/lb (organic available at WholeFoods for $1.80). This is the bulk of your cost for the finished cereal, so you can see that home-made granola is an inexpensive way to eat well at breakfast. The other expense is a good quality honey. At Denver Urban Homesteading & Farmers Market on 2nd and Santa Fe I was able to buy a quart jar of honey from a local producer that is excellent, and didn't cost more than $10.

granola-colorado-honey.jpgSpread oats onto cookie sheets, in a layer that isn't more than a flake or two deep.  Put as many trays as you can into the oven when it reaches 300 degrees, set the buzzer for 20 minutes and let them toast. Keep your nose alert for the smell of toasted oats.

granola-finished.jpgWhen most of the oats on any tray have changed from white to a nice tan color, slide the warm oats from the tray into a big bowl. Add 1 Tbs. of good honey and mix while warm. Put another tray into the oven to toast if you have more raw oats. And continue the process: adding the finished trays of oats to the bowl, followed by another dollop of honey and a give it a gentle mix. The time for toasting each tray will be different depending on its location in the oven, so you will need to keep you eyes and nose alert. Reset the buzzer to remind yourself.

When I'm about halfway through the trays, I might add about 1/4 tsp. of a very good salt, dried fruit and toasted nuts.  Toasting nuts brings out the unique flavor of each variety, and it's so easy to just keep toasting things while you're in the toasting business.

Eventually, every tray will make its way into your bowl and every flake will have had some contact with a little bit of honey. Let the cereal cool, but stir occasionally so the granola doesn't clump into one big mass.

If you want vanilla-flavored granola, add a fresh vanilla bean to the storage jar. Fresh fruit, yogurt, other nuts and dried fruit can be added when you serve the cereal.  

Chanterelles & Halibut

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Don't over power this delicate mushroom.
chanterelle-saute.jpgI've had no trouble finding all kinds of mushroom in good quantity this summer. But, when I find the apricot-colored Chanterelle, I forget I even like the other mushrooms. One scent of this one, and I've lost my taste for the hunt for any other.

chanterelle-halibut.jpgSweet and buttery both in smell and taste. Delicate prefaces any description of how they look and taste, so it's best to cook and serve them simply.  

One of my favorite ways to cook Chanterelles is in a risotto with just a little shallot, wine and a very little bit of Parmesan cheese. I love Parmesan, so it's rare I suggest such restraint.

But restraint is what is really necessary to get the most out of Chanterelles. Rule out meat, garlic, chilis. I imagined the perfect Chanterelle sauce for a very firm, very fine piece of Halibut.

The fish was pan fried in just a little oil, salted, peppered and put on a bed of fresh pasta.

The Chanterelles were cut to bite-sized pieces and sauteed for about 5 minutes in a tablespoon of butter.

Fresh wild mushrooms are moist, but will still absorb twice their weight in liquid, so it's best to go light on liquid,  too. Butter included.

About a 1/4 cup of white wine poured into the pan used to fry the fish conserved every bit of the flavor of the fish and good olive oil, and was the start of a sauce. I added an egg yolk to the wine to thicken it, whisked them together over low heat and added the mushrooms just moments before I arranged the sauce on top of each portion of fish.

We served it with a simple cold white Chardonnay and a few slices of fresh tomato from the garden.

The cooking of this meal took no time at all.

The collecting of the mushrooms had taken about three hours total and was, of course, written off as great exercise (whether or not mushrooms were to be found).

The cleaning of all these mushrooms, however, took hours. I enjoyed every minute of it. 

I now understand how someone might enjoy waxing their car. I held each mushroom, blew the obvious dirt away, cut off any part of the stem that wasn't going to come clean, and then used an artist's paint brush to flick dirt from the fluted gills that run down the stem and under the cap. Finally, a soft, damp tea towel took any remaining dirt or debris off the top. For me, the smell of Chanterelle is much better than Carnauba, but the pride was probably similar to that of someone with a cherry ride.
bolete-precooked.pngMushroom Pizza Fest
Voila! Here comes the pizza starring Boletus Edulis - ready for the oven. This was just one of several pizzas the mushroom foragers produced after a long day's harvest.

Lucia started this pizza with a bolete-pizza.pngwhole-wheat crust, which she painted with basil pesto, piled with mushrooms, then topped with chunks of fresh mozzarella cheese, basil leaves and fresh tomato slices.

Using a couple cups of chopped and sautéed Boletus mushrooms, this was the second pizza out of the oven for our 2010 Mushroom fest, and we were all chomping at the bit to taste the mushroom called the King. King Bolete.

Technically Boletus edulis; a typically mushroom taste, maybe a little nutty (pine-nutty?) but meaty, it doesn't fall apart when cooked. Unlike many wild mushrooms, it stays firm, said Lucia praising it. It tastes like a forest, packed into a mushroom body.

The pizza was rich. Rightly rich.

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